Still to this day I remember watching wide world of sports when I was 5 or maybe 6 years old and seeing a small clip of surfers competing at Sunset Beach Hawaii. From that day I was obsessed with becoming a surfer living the surfer lifestyle and moving to Hawaii.
While this wouldn’t be odd behavior for a kid that lived near the beach in Calif to exhibit I am from Wisconsin. I tried all the water sports , I was on the swim team in high school. I swam until my under arms were raw but it sure was not fun to swim in a pool back and forth.
I longed for the ocean and to get on a surfboard, for some reason I thought that surfing would make a total difference in my life. I am not sure why I thought that at such a young age. But it took my almost 20 years to get to the ocean. I went into a local surf shop and purchased a surfboard and a wet-suit. I basically knew nothing about surfing except that I was planning on becoming a surfer and moving to Hawaii.
All the surfers laughed at me, they said I would never learn to surf on a twin fin that was 6 ft 7 inches. I stood up the first day on the white wash. Then it took me 6 months to stand up again. I surfed everyday I rented a place next to the ocean and got a job on the weekends. I was done with the party seen really. I wanted to surf.
Well after about a year of surfing everyday I was getting good enough to try the winter surf which can be much larger. I was able to surf most of that winter and convince myself that I would move to Hawaii and surf. My dream was coming true. The best part about it is I realized that all it took was desire.
It took desire and persistence to learn to surf and once I made my mind up that I was moving to Hawaii and going to live the dream life, that’s all it took pretty much. Oh sure there was resistance but I was sure not to get involved with any women that didn’t understand that I am a surfer now and I surf when there is waves.
It was a bit more difficult back then, there was no internet so you had to have a skill that you could take with you that made money. These days with the internet I was making money while I was surfing for a year in Costa Rica. So you see living the dream life is all about wanting to and setting up you life to facilitate your surfing.
It is not about shirking your responsibilities and ditching work because its epic. I was a surgical technician for 25 years and that was my primary skill that fed the family. I liked to take everyones call then I can surf and be with my family until 3pm everyday.
Thats just how I stayed in the water when I was working a conventional job. These days the web keeps me surfing. You can produce content and get paid and the days I am not producing content because I am to tired from surfing I am getting paid. So you see living the dream life just got much easier for all of us.